Get Started with Sewing Machine Basics

Sewing machines come in a variety of makes and models but all work in much the same way. As opposed to hand sewing, which works by moving a single strand of thread in and out of the fabric, sewing machines use two strands of thread that are intertwined to form stitches. This use of two threads instead of one allows sewing machines to work quickly.

The Parts of a Sewing Machine

The parts of a sewing machine can be broken down into a few basic systems that work together.

Spool Thread System

The spool thread runs from the top spool, which sits on the spool pin, to the needle:

• Spool pin: This is a pole at the top right of the machine where the top spool of thread sits.
• Thread guides: These are loops or hooks through which the spool thread (the thread from the top spool) is routed on its way to the needle. The guides keep the spool thread running smoothly.
• Thread take-up: This is a metal lever through which the spool thread is threaded. The lever pumps up and down during the sewing process, pulling the thread from the spool and feeding it through the needle.
• Needle: The top spool of thread is threaded through the eye of the needle. The needle cycles up and down, plunging through the fabric with each downward motion. To install a needle in your sewing machine, loosen the needle clamp, then insert your machine needle with its point facing down and its eye facing you. Twist the needle clamp, tightening it as much as possible.

Bobbin Mechanism and Bobbin Thread

The bobbin mechanism houses the bottom spool (also called the bobbin thread) in the sewing machine. It is located beneath the needle, inside the base of the sewing machine. When the sewing machine is in operation and the needle plunges through the fabric, the bobbin mechanism intertwines the bottom thread with the spool thread to form stitches.

• Bobbin: The bobbin is a short metal spool for holding thread.
• Bobbin case: The bobbin case is a hollow metal case that holds the bobbin. The bobbin is inserted into the case, and the thread is pulled through the thread slot in the side of the case. The case is then inserted into the compartment beneath the needle mechanism. Not all sewing machines use identical bobbins. See your owner’s manual for more detail on inserting the bobbin into the bobbin case and the case into the machine.

Fabric-Feeding Assembly

The fabric-feeding assembly contains the parts of the sewing machine that allow you to feed your fabric smoothly under the needle:

• Presser foot: The presser foot has two metal strips that hold the fabric flat during sewing. Sewing machines have a general-purpose foot that can be replaced by specialized feet designed for specific tasks, such as working on a zipper or buttonhole.
• Presser foot lifter: This lever allows you to raise or lower the presser foot.
• Feed dogs: These are grooved tracks beneath the needle that grip the fabric, pushing it away from you during sewing.
• Throat plate: This is the metal plate beneath the presser foot and needle mechanism. The needle plunges through the throat plate to work with the bobbin. Guides etched into this plate help you avoid sewing seams too close to the edge of the fabric.

Controls

The sewing machine controls allow you to modify or control its operation:

• Stitch selection panel: Sewing machines make many different stitches, such as straight, zigzag, and more decorative designs. Most machines display their stitch options on the front plate of the sewing machine, and you can select the stitch you want by turning a little dial next to or beneath the plate. Sewing patterns specify which stitch or stitches to use.
• Balance wheel: This is a dial you turn to work the needle up and down manually to take stitches at a slow, controlled pace.
• Stitch length regulator: This regulator controls the length of the stitches. Increments vary by machine, but on most machines the standard setting for stitch length is 2.5 on the regulator. Stitch length depends on both the setting you choose and the thickness of the fabric. The thicker the fabric, the more slowly it will move through the machine and the smaller the stitch length will be. The stitch length that you choose also affects the thread tension, or the tension of the thread against the fabric.
• Stitch width regulator: This regulator sets the width of any stitch that’s not straight, such as a zigzag stitch.
• Reverse lever: This lever makes the feed dogs move the fabric toward you rather than away from you so you can work backward over your previous stitches.
• Foot pedal: The foot pedal lets you start and stop the machine while keeping your hands free to do something else.

Sewing Machine Maintenance

With some simple cleaning and maintenance, your sewing machine will operate reliably and last longer:

• Keep covered when not in use: Dust, pet hair, and dirt can get into the mechanisms or circuits of your machine and affect its functioning.
• Clean after use: After every project, use a small brush (usually included with the machine) or a small piece of cotton fabric to remove lint, clumps of fibers, or loose threads from the machine’s moving parts.
• Change the needle after every four hours of sewing: A dull or slightly bowed needle will worsen the performance of the machine.