A sewing pattern is a blueprint for a sewing project that shows how to cut fabric into pieces and then sew the pieces together.
Table of Contents
The Pattern Envelope
Most sewing patterns come in an envelope called the pattern envelope. All the information you need to make a sewing pattern is either printed on the pattern envelope or contained inside.
Information Printed on the Pattern Envelope
- Project image and variations: The front of the envelope shows the finished project and variations. For a shirt project, for example, variations might include long-sleeve, short-sleeve, and sleeveless versions.
- Sizing: One pattern allows you to make a project of various sizes. The pattern refers to the different sizes by a number, such as size 8, 10, or 12, but these numbers usually don’t correspond to the sizes of clothes sold in stores. A person who’s normally a size 6 may need to make a pattern that’s a size 8 or 10. Take your own measurements and match them against the measurements given for the different sizes to choose the right size.
- Suggested materials: Recommended types and amounts of fabric, thread, and other materials are printed on the envelope.
Information Contained Within the Pattern Envelope
- Patterns and master patterns: Patterns are templates for the pieces you cut out of the fabric and then sew together to make the project. The templates are printed on tissue paper that can be pinned to the fabric to make cutting easier. The templates have different outlines drawn onto them to correspond to the different sizes allowed by the pattern. Master patterns are identical to patterns but are printed on better stock. Whereas patterns are just used once and then thrown out, master patterns can be reused.
- Pattern key and glossary: This section provides all the information you need to read the notes and markings on the pattern pieces.
- Pattern cutting guide: This guide shows you the most efficient way to cut the pieces from your fabric.
- Pattern sewing guide: This guide shows you how to sew the fabric pieces together and attach all notions.
How to Cut Pattern Pieces
To cut pattern pieces:
- Pin the tissue-paper patterns onto the fabric as suggested by the pattern cutting guide. Pin each piece along the outline drawn onto the pattern that corresponds to the size you want to make.
- Be aware that some pattern pieces are designed to be cut over fabric that’s been folded in half or in quarters in order to produce multiple identical pieces or a single piece with two symmetrical sides. Usually these patterns must be pinned right up against the folded edge of the fabric.
- Using rotary cutters or fabric shears, cut carefully around the outline that you pinned to the fabric.
- Each tissue-paper pattern has a number of markings on it. Use chalk or water-soluble ink to transfer these markings precisely to the fabric pieces you cut out.
Aligning Printed Fabrics
When a fabric contains a patterned print, lay out and cut your fabric pieces so that the pattern is aligned when the pieces are sewn together. Pieces that need to be sewn together should contain corresponding markings on their edges (those markings are explained in more detail below). You can use the markings to make sure that the pieces are lined up exactly against the patterned fabric.
How to Assemble Pattern Pieces
In the pattern sewing guide, each pattern piece is given a number that indicates the order in which the pieces should be assembled. Each pattern piece is also marked by symbols or markings that help you to align the pieces when you sew them together. For instance, piece 1 may have a triangle located on its side that matches an identical triangle located on the side of piece 2. When you match up the triangles, you’ll have aligned piece 1 and 2 so that they’re ready to be sewn together. Once you have the pattern pieces aligned:
- Pin the pattern pieces together: The pinned pieces should have a seam allowance of 5/8″, which is standard for sewing patterns.
- Basting the seams: Join the pieces using the basting stitch. Basting prevents the pieces from sliding out of alignment as you sew more permanent seams and also allows you to assess the fit of what you’re sewing.
- Sew the seams: Sew the permanent seams using a sewing machine or the backstitch. Special stitch work or techniques are outlined in the pattern sewing guide.
- Finishing the seams: To finish the seams so they won’t fray, cut the raw edge of each seam allowance with pinking shears, or stitch each seam allowance separately with the overcast stitch or the zigzag stitch on your sewing machine.
- Pressing the seams: Pressing means lowering the iron down onto the fabric, holding it there, and then lifting it away. Do this in overlapping motions down the length of the seam. Most seams should be pressed open so the two seam allowances lie flat on either side of the seam, though occasionally a pattern calls for the two seam allowances to be pressed to the same side.
After you’ve finished assembly, there’s still hand-finishing to do: removing basting stitches, tidying up thread ends, hemming, and attaching notions and closures.
Determining Placement of Notions and Closures
Icons representing buttons, buttonholes, zippers, darts, and pockets are printed on the pattern tissue as well. When transferring pattern markings to fabric, be sure to include these marks precisely. The sewing instructions will outline clearly when to add these components—usually after the main construction is finished.
[…] clothes and accessories, such as handbags and belts, from scratch by following sewing patterns, which range in difficulty from beginner to expert. You can also give your clothes a new look or […]